Iceland 2023

I can’t remember for how long I’ve wanted to visit Iceland with a Land Rover, in particular an old one. So last year we did just that.

This is our 5th time in Iceland and most likely the last. We’ve hitchhiked, trekked, bussed and cycled on our tandem there. However, mass fly drive and cruise ship tourism has really taken its toll.

Getting there from mainland Europe

At time of writing, the only RORO sea connection to Iceland is operated by Smyrilline from Hirtshals at the northern tip of Denmark to Seyðisfjörður on the east coast of Iceland. It’s a journey of 2 days aboard the beautiful MS Norröna.

Getting to Hirtshals from Switzerland is a journey of 1400km. In a Series 2, that’s a long way when you’re in a hurry… and most would be on German Autohbahn.

Fortunately, there’s a car train from Lorrach to Hamburg operated by Urlaubs-Express. From there it’s a manageable 400km to Hirtshals. Maximum vehicle height is 1.95m!

Iceland

Just some pictures… mostly of the interior.

Faeroe Islands

Compared to Iceland the Faeroes have tourism under control. It’s a beautiful unspoilt place and you can disembark for 3 or 7 days en-route from Iceland to Denmark. We opted for the 7 day stopover and did some hiking and chilled out.

The ship dropped us off with some 30 other vehicles at 3 am so we had some time to mill about Torshavn before the day got going. Campsites are basic and quiet. We stayed in one that even came with an ensuite leisure centre.

The return home

Upon arrival on mainland Europe, we headed South in storm force winds. High winds in a short wheelbase Land Rover is really not fun. Denmark is pan flat so the wind can blow a bit. Denmark generates 47% of its energy from wind power and you can see why. The vehicle was much easier to manage off the motorways but it took a long time to cover any distance.

From Denmark, we headed to Sweden via the ferry from Arhuus and over the beautiful Øresund Bridge (more wind). Another couple of ferries later we arrived on the tranquil island of Bornholm.

A lot of the camp sites on Bornholm have an area set aside for people who are actually camping with a tent. Unlike the campsites on Iceland, they were spacious relaxed, clean and quiet after 10pm. The absence of , “van life” rentals was noticeable.

We left LGL at the campsite in Rønne and headed off with our bivibags to hike around the coast of the island. This is a popular hike as well as a family bike tour. It is permissible to hikers and cyclists to wild camp in designated areas.

We departed Bornholm on a very early ferry to Germany and slowly made our way south back to Switzerland. Germany is vast and also beautiful with a fascinating history but the only way to make any progress was to get on the autobahn. With 3 lanes, there’s space for everyone. We go the same speed as the trucks on the inside lane, so with our ear buds in we bimbled along at a steady 80kph. It is disconcerting though to look in the wing mirror to see a vehicle in the outside lane travelling at probably three times our speed!

We had planned to camp in Friedrichshafen the night before we crossed back into Switzerland but everyone else had had the same idea.

We managed to get the last ferry of the day across Bodensee to Switzerland and eventually home. Out last day was also our longest, covering 600 kms, bringing the trip total to 5000kms.

After a bit of unpacking the next day, LGL had the rear seats reinstalled and went for a thorough wash down. I collected a fist full of pumice from the top of the rear cross member!

What went wrong?

• Heater switch burnt out in Klaksvik. A heart stopping moment when the cab filled with smoke. Fortunately the problem was obvious and the switch isolated. But this meant no more heater, which on the Faeroes was quite chilly.
• Nothing else broke, stopped working, or leaked out (much) 🙂

What spares / tools did we take?

• Dynamo
• Water pump and gaskets
• Wheel bearing service kit x2
• Full set of gearbox gaskets
• Cylinder head gasket
• Hylomar sealant
• Pickoff gear and fixings
• Bulbs and indictor lenses
• EP90
• Engine oil
• Coolent
• Grease gun
• Fuses
• Drop arm remover
• Gearbox mainshaft lock nut tool
• Hub spanner
• Imperial socket set
• Imperial spanners
• Sundry fixings
• Fencing wire
• Jubilee clips
• h

Summing up

It was amazing to take an old Land Rover to Iceland. I’ve wanted to do it since I owned my Series 3 but the practicalities of getting there was always a blocker. I’ve now realised that dream.

I could grumble about Iceland and its hoards of fly drive, cruise ship tourists but it wouldn’t change anything.

Iceland remains a beautiful wilderness and it’s still worth a visit if you’ve never been with your Landy… just be prepared for the crowds.

Unless there was a group of Series Land Rover planning to go to Iceland solely for the purpose of driving deep into the interior and out the other side, I’ve seen the best of Iceland.

Next stop Africa in 2025.

Last Word

The owner of the Series 3 below came and introduced himself at the camp site in Rønne. We later had a good long chat over a couple of beers and compared notes on Land Rovers… as you do.

I’ve had many a yarn with Land Rover owners but I’ve never met one who built their own chassis! This is a staggering level of engineering!

So, message to Andreas… if you’re reading this, get in touch via the “contact” formula on the home page. I managed to loose your contact details. Cheers. Andy.