With the tow hook “revitalised”, it’s time to fit it to the rear cross member. This is done by way of a drop plate.

Consideration also needs to be given to mounting the trailer socket. There is a bracket available to house the trailer socket in the PTO aperture in the rear cross member but I rather like this left open… you never know, I might need it one day.


Drop plate and high tensile bolts. The 4 uppermost holes are used to fix the plate to the rear cross member. The 4 lower holes allow the tow ball to be mounted at different heights. 


Corresponding holes in the rear cross member. 


Given that the chassis has been galvanised, the holes need to be filed out so as the bolts will pass through. Rats tale file sorts this out.


The rear side of the crossmember. Bolts have a generous amount of copper slip applied before the nuts are tightened down.


Drop plate a-fixed. It’s not by coincidence, the bolt heads are aligned… Oh how I’ve missed spannering things 🙂


Next comes the tow ball and socket. The mounting plate is water-jet cut stainless steel.


When ordering any parts for LGL, I avoid, like the plague, anything labeled as “Britpart”. However on the odd occasion, it’s not alway possible to identify the manufacture; as was the case with the electric socket!!!

The socket was supplied with no fixings and the 3 fixing holes were of such an odd size, I needed to drill the body out to fit something practical.

Drilling out the socket mounting holes


Magnificently designed socket with the electrics exposed to the elements fixed to the mounting plate. (the socket will be changed for a quality one in the near future)


Tow hook, plate and socket ready for fitment.


Everything now fixed to the cross member. Something else on the shopping list are some new bolts for the tow hook. I’m pretty sure these came off Gracie and have been all the way to South Africa!

The next job is to wire the socket. The wiring loom has 5 wires… the socket has 7 terminals! Head scratching can now commence…