Preamble

In the last post I showed connecting the vacuum take-off for the servo to the spigot on the carb inlet manifold.

Turns out there is not enough vacuum generated at this point when the throttle is shut (normal position when breaks are in use) to actuate the servo. This take-off is used for later “detoxed” engines for the rocker cover and crankcase breather.

However, the engine inlet manifold (south of the carburettor) has a vacuum take off. At this point, the airflow is concentrated through a much narrower diameter pipe and creates a much higher vacuum when the throttle is closed.

Original Land Rover parts to connect to this take-off location are now very scarce (and expensive) so I followed a great suggestion from a Series 2 club member to simply use an off the shelf 1/4″ BSF banjo fitting.

2 x 1/4 BSP banjo fittings (one as a spare)
Original vacuum take-off with blanking plug
Blanking plug removed
Banjo bolt installed

The hose can now be disconnected from the carb intake manifold…

Spigot connection
Spigot removed and the blanking plug back in place

Petrol Trap

As the vacuum is now being sourced from beneath the carb, it’s recommended that a “petrol trap” is formed in the vacuum hose.

This is simply a U-bend that will catch any petrol and prevent it from being drawn into the servo.

It’s monumentally unlikely that this would ever happen as the vacuum is “sucking” rather than “blowing” but is recommended by the servo manufacturer.

Petrol trap formed in the vacuum hose

Connecting the hoses

With the u-bend formed in the vacuum hose, and the take off much further forwards in the engine bay, the hose length I had was not long enough.

The original installation was cut from a 2m length of vacuum hose from Silicon Hoses in the UK, so I had some left over.

I now own a small lathe so was able to machine a connector to extend what I had to reach the take-off on the intake manifold.

Took a while to figure out the taper turning setup to cut the facets on the connector!
8mm ID custom made connector

Hose now connected end to end.

Close-Out

The brakes were re-bled, using the workshop manual process rather than the Bezi-Bleed kit (it always leaves some air in the wheel cylinders) and the pads adjusted to the drums.

Today, I took the Landy out for a test drive of the new brakes. The first drive since November. The difference in brake performance is amazing.

LGL always braked in a straight line but i’ve never been able to lock the brakes (not a desirable situation as you’re effectively out of control). But if the need arose, an appointment is no longer required to slow the vehicle to a complete stop in a short distance.