With the the axles rebuilt (something of a milestone), there’s some time (10 weeks) before the chassis arrives from  Richards Chassis in the UK. With this “float” in the plan, its time to get going on some of the smaller, less esoteric, parts.

Rather than committing an entire detailed post of ,say, putting the Smiths heater back together, I simply add a collection of “Before n After” shots of the parts.

So here we go… Part 1:

Below: Heater Fan (now you’re excited)

The Smiths heater motor needs replacing as its sounds like it’s full of gravel, so whilst the fan was off, I thought I’d rub it back and give it a lick of paint.



After. I’ll post some pics of the overall heater assembly at a later date

Below: Brake, Clutch Towers and Throttle

So, I have the brake and clutch towers the wrong way round but you get the general idea of the layout from drivers seat
Stripped, cleaned, wet and dried and really for primer
We’re all guilty of it, but resting your foot on the clutch pedal, not only wears the clutch release bearing out but after 49 years takes its toll on the edge of the pedal. DON’T-DO-IT
Primer coat
Top coat
It takes about a week for the top coat to harden off, so these will be residing in the basement until the new bushes and shafts arrive to refit the pedals to the towers


Below: Combined brake and clutch reservoir.

Unlike more modern variants, the (non servo) Series 2a had a single fluid reservoir for the brake and clutch systems. It’s the same fluid for each system… DOT 3 or 4… Broadly speaking, the higher the DOT number the higher the boiling point of the fluid. (The Hope brakes on my MTB run on DOT 5.1)

Oily corroded fluid reservoir and delivery pipes. The pipes look a bit ropey as they have been butchered to fit non standard master cylinders. New (correct spec) cylinders have been ordered, as have, correctly bent replacement pipes.
Wet and dry is magnificent stuff. Reservoir, bracket, cap and seal.
1st coat primer
2nd top coat and correct (replica) Girling warning stickers. I deliberately didn’t paint the threads on the reservoir and the inside of the cap as inevitably, the paint will flake and end up in the fluid. Particles of paint in ones brake lines isn’t a desirable situation
Finished product including period stickers and original dents