A milestone date (not that I bother tracking this stuff anymore)…. door bottoms are fitted. 🙂 … but not without a fight.

Series Land Rover doors, consist of two parts…. the “bottoms” and the “tops”, these recent posts are, of course, the bottoms. Tops will come later once the roof is fitted.

The paint finish looks OK with the exception of a slight paint run under the passenger door handle but you’d have to know where it was.

So without further ado…..

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Locks cleaned up and the captive bolts repainted. New stainless hardware all round

 

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Locks fitted. Passenger on left, driver on the right

 

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Same from the outside. The drivers door is the one with the key barrel

 

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Now for the original door cappings. A quick rub down with some wire wool and a scotch pad and the “spangle” of the galvanising comes up nicely. These pop rivet to the top of the door and should line up with the cappings on the rear tub

 

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Locks and capping fixed

 

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Original door bolts with their heads repainted to match the rest of the bodywork. New stainless nyloc nuts and washers

 

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Drivers door fitted but didn’t line up very well…. in-fact the thing wouldn’t shut.

 

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Door capping fouls the read tub capping…. No chance that will ever shut

 

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Nah. Not going to work….. Hmm…. What to do…?

 

5 mins searching the archives of the Series 2 Forum and the solution presented itself…. I can’t move the rear tub backwards as it won’t go backwards any further, so the door would have to move forwards. This in turn requires the bulkhead to be moved forwards a little bit. A common suggestion on the forum was to fit a large washer between the bulkhead and chassis at the point where fixes to the chassis. I have the old washers from the original bulkhead bolts, so used one of them and am please to say, it worked a treat.

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Whilst supporting the weight of the bulkhead, the main bolt was drifted out (red box)

 

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The subframe channel was loosened off to allow some movement (1) and with a long lever between the bulkhead and chassis, the gap was opened up enough to insert the 3mm washer. (2). The main bolt was tapped home, through the washer and the bulkhead and subframe bolts re-tightened

 

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Hey presto the door shuts. The lock keep needs a little bit of adjustment but I’d call it job done

 

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The passenger side door fits almost perfectly. The top left corner needs lifting a small amount for the body work to aligned better (follow line from filler can forwards and you’ll see where) but I can adjust this in the hinges

So why didn’t they both fit perfectly, after all it’s the same rear tub and same bulkhead.  It’s not unheard of that a bulkhead whilst being galvanised (which this one has been), can warp a little bit due to the heat shock of being dipped into molten zinc. The whole bulkhead is made from numerous, relatively thin, pieces of steel (2.5 – 3.0 mm) welded together, so its not surprised they warp a little.