After separating the frame from the skin and painting then, they had to be riveted back together. Once that was done, other small tasks were to fit the hinges, new rubber wheel buffers, spare wheel mount (more riveting) and put the thing back onto the Land Rover.
The bonnet stay, (to hold it up when open) and the closure pin (to hold it shut when closed) will need to be fitted and I think, I’ll pop the spare wheel on there to see how it looks. With the exception of the lights, that’s the front end finished.
Like your new bonnet steel frame, is it made to order or can you buy this item, mine is badly corroded and holed, out skin is fine..
Would appreciate some feedback.
Nick Murphy restoring a series 3.
Thanks for the message.
The steel frame is actually integral to the bonnet and not available as a replacement part on its own.
I drilled out all the rivets, removed it from the skin (which needs a bit of careful bending at the rear corners), stripped it, repainted it and refitted with the correct rivets.
If yours is heavily corroded it might be worth sourcing a complete new bonnet unless you can or know someone who is a competent welder.
If you are in the UK, you’re sure to find one for sale on a forum.
There are 2 part numbers for S3 bonnets: Delux (with the recess in the middle) = MRC2440. Standard = MRC2479.
Not sure if these come with or without the spare wheel mounts…. but easy enough to exchange between one and the other.
PA Blanchards actually have a Genuine Delux model for sale.
Good luck with the project.
Nice write up. The Spare Wheel Buffers, does the rubber of tyre or the metal of the rim rest on these?
Hi Fisk, thanks for leaving a message. The tyre should sit on the rubber buffer not the wheel rim.
Hope this helps.
All the best.
I have just bought a series IIa and will redo the frame under the bonnet as you did. So my questions to you:
1) Did you remove the old rivets by drilling 5 mm?
2) Is it diffucult to master the replacement with solid rivets?
3) Was it original aluminium rivets? and who was the supplier?
4) Did you use solid rivets on other parts of yor Landy?
Best regards from Denmark,
Hi Peter, thanks for leaving a comment.
1) I think I used a 4mm drill to drill out the old rivets, a 5mm might risk enlarging the original hole of it wanders. Good idea to centre punch the heads of all the rivets first so the bit stays on track.
2) no, it’s not hard to get used to the air hammer. I was surprised how easy it was actually. You’ll be fine. I did a few practice ones on a piece of scrap.
3) I got the correct sized replacement rivets from “Bits for Landys” in the UK. They sell every shape and size rivet for just about everything. Decent overseas shipping price too, although this might have changed. They also sell the snap punch which your need to secure the end of the river you’re not hammering on… an essential tool.
4) Yes, I reinstalled solid rivets in the locations where they were used. Aside from the bonnet, they’re mostly on the rear tub capping.
Hope this helps and good luck with the project.