Having failed to satisfy the whim of the test centre regarding the fitment of parabolic springs, a brand new bespoke set of multi leaf springs were ordered from Jones Springs in Wednesbury, Birmingham England. (my father was born in Wednesbury).
Having had cheaper replacement springs on Gracie, I knew I didn’t want to go back down the Britpart route. They’re utter garbage, one of the leafs actually snapped just driving around on smooth, pothole free Swiss roads!
It took a little while longer than anticipated for Jones to make and ship them but you get what you pay for. They have an excellent reputation in the Land Rover community and came highly recommended by the Series 2 club. Made from British steel too. Not many folks can boast that.
Having cribbed up on how one replaces a spring on a fully rebuilt vehicle, it seemed straight forward enough…. but then, it always does…
The new springs will give a harder ride but will lower the ride height considerably maybe allowing me to get the vehicle in the garage. Oh… and they may help me pass the MFK, which is the reason I’m doing it.
First thing to do is jack the vehicle up, remove the wheels and support the chassis on some axle stands. Then support the axle just above its lowest point of travel. With a little bit of tension in the spring this will help “push” the spring off the axle.
Replacing the passengers side spring is the same process as the drivers side… except you lie on the other side of your body. No angle grinder required this time 🙂
Much the same procedure as the front only with much heavier springs!
But there’s a problem with this one…
After a lot of trying the shift the axle fore and aft to get it to fit, I bit the bullet and uninstalled the spring in order to take some measurements. The stud starts to engage but doesn’t go “home”.
I should say, that design changes over the years on Land Rover parts does, on occasion, lead to problems like this. Easily fixed though.
Now onto the second rear spring…
Once the wheels were back on, and the Landy was sat on the ground again, I gave the whole vehicle a good rocking then went round and tightened all of the fixings fully.
But will it fit?
As you see in the picture above the ride height is greatly reduced… by a massive 100mm at the rear..
Maybe it’ll fit in the garage? On first attempt the handle of the door hit the middle of the roof just behind the front seats. I modified the handle (some cutting, drilling and tapping in a new spring pin) so it sat closer to the door. This bought me another 20mm
I checked the tyre pressure… not sure why they were all at 40 psi! but with the correct pressure (25 psi) I gained another 10mm at the rear.
Bum…. this time the bar across the bottom of the door fouls one of the rear air vent domes. I can’t cut the bar out as it’s integral to the door opening squarely.
I cant change the door so how do I gain the required 5mm to clear the bar on the garage door.
I need something heavy to put in the back. Not something filthy dirty and easy to shift in and out of the vehicle…
The springs will sag in due course and the additional weight won’t be required in the rear. The second spare wheel will be homed on the bonnet sooner or later but I’m please my 52 year old Landy is in the dry again.
Wow, what an incredible job! Glad it fits inside 😀
Yep, cold galling _ galls me
Love to visit the web pages for its lucrative look and well organized information.
That’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Andi.
Lovely work. Such a joy to see a clean Land Rover amidst the current vogue for patina etc.
Nice Job. What torque settings did you tighten them all to? Also did you have to put any weight on the vehicle to bring the gap down between the axle and chassis before tighting up?
Thanks for the kind words. There’s no torque settings listed in the workshop manual. Advice from the Series 2 club was to tighten the u-bolt nuts to 50 lb/ft. New u-bolts will stretch after a few months and you may feel the vehicle drifts to one side or the other when you come off the gas…this is symptomatic of loose u-bolts. Re-torque as required.
For the preload on the springs, drop the vehicle back to the ground with all the shackle bolts loose and give it a good shake to align the bushes… then tighten all the shackle bolts.. again, there’s not torque setting in the workshop manual.
Hope this helps.